Sweet bitterness in heavenly Corsica

Have you already heard about Corsican citrons? This weird kind of lemon made the French “Île de Beauté” rich a few centuries back and is now coming back to everyone’s delight. Let’s travel to a little paradisiac piece of land in Corsica to better know the citron’s journey.

Views from the hilltops of Corsica

Barrettali is a tiny village located in the Northern tip of Corsica, the fourth largest island in the Mediterranean, that lies 105 miles (170 km) from southern France and 56 miles (90 km) from northwestern Italy. The village consists of scarcely disseminated houses in the mountain, some closer together to form hamlets around a church or a chapel. The view is only made of mountains, trees, churches and the shining Mediterranean.

Even though it is very tiny, Barrettali hosts a new business for a few years now, a citron farm. A small plot of land clinging to the mountain has recently been converted to a family-size farm to produce this big puffy bitter lemon that has a very thick skin and a small amount of pulp inside. Not very sexy compared to its lemon cousin, right? 

The Citron, or ‘ugly lemon’

Still, this “ugly” lemon contributed to the prosperity of the area for many centuries, with a period of glory in the 19th century. Back then, everyone in the northern part of Corsica used their field to farm citrons in terraces and Corsica exported them all over the world. Little by little though, the 20th century marked the end of the citron market and the Corsican vegetation (“maquis”) took control back over the terraces.

But citrons had not said their last word yet. A few producers, such as Xavier in Barrettali, decided to resume their production on the island. Confit, cosmetics, beer, liqueur, pharmacology, etc.: citrons are used in all kinds of products today. Producers found a way to turn their bitterness into sweetness and make a perfect souvenir for tourists and visitors.

Move slowly when visiting places light Barrettali, Corsica

Stopping in “Les cédrats du Cap Corse” is not only good for your souvenir shopping, as the farm offers its visitors a comprehensive experience to better know the citrons. Once arrived, walk out of your car to follow the signs: they will guide you around the trees and the growing citrons. You will learn more about citrus in general and how the farmers manage the constraints of growing citrons in the small informative museum.

Stone walls feature across these lands

Do not forget to lift your eyes and admire the amazing view over the sea and mountains towards Saint-Florent and Calvi. The glowing Mediterranean sea captures your eyes and makes this walk a gentle stroll in what paradise could look like. The owners prepared special places for you to discover, such as the “VIP corner” or the “Paradise hammock” at the bottom of the farm, which offer the best views over the wild landscape. Walking there slowly, closing your eyes to feel the light sea breeze on your face, smelling citron trees around you, petting the friendly donkey grazing on the farm… You might actually be in paradise.

Views like this…

Sant'Amanza Beach (Beach Maora), Pietrosella, France. Photo by Mathilde Cureau






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