Why is the Lycian Way more than a hike in Turkey?
Hiking down history. Stepping in ancient cities. Admiring ever-changing sceneries. The Lycian Way, one of the most famous hiking trails in Turkey, offers it all. But what the visitors might not expect when preparing for the 30-to-45-day long trail, is the sparkle of emotions that come from their encounters with local people and Turkish hospitality.
Starting from Hisarönü, near Fethiye, and going to Geyikbayırı, close to Antalya, the Lycian Way stretches along the South-Western coast of Turkey for more than 500km on a well-marked and highly-frequented path (in spring and autumn mainly).
The first section connecting Fethiye to Patara is one of the hikers’ favorites, as it concentrates what you came for: scenic beaches, wild mountains, pretty villages, and ancient Lycian cities.
From Day 1, a routine creates itself. Waking up at first light, putting on warm clothes for the morning, cooking breakfast, and packing up your tent and equipment. Then the hike itself starts, alternating between long, silent walks, ideal to let your thoughts wander, and spectacular paths where you feel a real connection with nature. You better bring a bit of food with you, as you will not find much on the way, except tiny shops selling chips and chocolate bars (just what you need to get through your day, but not very healthy!). Arriving at your next stop in the afternoon, you can either find a place to stay in a “pansiyon”, a small family B&B, pitch your tent in their garden, or find a wild spot to sleep in harmony with nature.
The ancient Lycian civilization, that lived in the area for many centuries (BC), left many clues for you to find and imagine their way of life. Without even looking, you might step on antique ruins along the Lycian Way. But the most outstanding thing they left in Southern Turkey is the tombs. Stone-carved, often in cliffs, they survived across the centuries and are remarkably well-preserved.
“Gözleme var!”
One morning, after a short but energizing night in the mountains, you might decide to start hiking early to avoid the afternoon’s warmth. In the pension’s garden, all the other hikers are still asleep when you depart. That stage is quite long and starts with a steady climb to reach a small village.
For 1 hour -or maybe two, but you do not want to check your watch- you walk slowly in the calm and misty forest. After reaching and walking through the village, a mouth-watering sign says “gözleme & çay”. A freshwater source is flowing just above the small café. Perfect excuse for a break.
Two young women, probably sisters, are preparing the place to receive hikers during the day. So far, not a hiking shoe in sight. A simple “Merhaba!” (Hello in Turkish) is enough to start the order. “Gözleme var!” says one of the sisters: “We have gözlemes”.
The plastic chairs of the café welcome you while the sisters start preparing those thin pancakes filled with potatoes, cheese, spinach or mincemeat. Their smile says a lot about Turkish hospitality. Those gözlemes have nothing to do with the ones you find in tourist places in Istanbul. They are made fresh, patiently kneaded and rolled out, with the heart. And in an amazingly quiet environment, where you can only hear the spring water flowing and a few distant sheeps, you admire their cooking gesture. The terrasse has an open view over the village and the cloudy mountain. What could have only been the wait for your gözleme becomes a great contemplation moment.
You cannot have a great conversation with the sisters but you feel like you understand each other. You cannot ask them whether they work here every day or they are just taking over for their “Anne” (mother) today and usually studying, but they bring you so much comfort during your adventurous hike.
Time to taste your gözleme, coming with a tiny glass of tea, and continue your hike. The legendary Turkish hospitality has more than one surprise for you along the way.