The Imperial City on the Perfume River
Hue is a former Imperial Capital, and it shows! This compact city is one of the most beautiful in the country and is adorned with the splendours of its Royal history. It became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993.
Setting the scene for Hue, Vietnam
Sprawling along the wonderfully named Perfume River, this stunning city is packed with awe-inspiring architecture and sights. A potted history of Central Vietnam is on display here, from the grandeur of the Imperial Palaces to the scars of the 20th-century wars and the modern vibrancy of the country today.
Hue is ancient. A city was here more than two thousand years ago trading with China and India. It became the Capital city of the Champa people before 200 CE after defeating the Chinese Han Dynasty military stationed in the area. The ancient ruins of the Capital of the Cham Kingdom of Lam Ap dating to the 4th century lay 3 km west of the modern city centre on Long Tho Hill. Another Cham Capital city in the area is the 9th-century ruins of Hoa Chau.
The majority of the monuments are more recent and more spectacular. The Emperor’s Tombs, the Imperial City, the Citadel and the Thein Mu Pagoda were built in the last three and a half centuries. Hue, at its height, was a parkland city, and most of the monuments were surrounded by gardens and water features. As well as being visually stunning, the gardens make the grounds relaxing and serene. Even during the height of the tourist season, you can find a quiet, fragrant corner surrounded by flowers and lush tropical plants for a moment of reflection. Some of the centuries-old clay paving stones have cat paw prints in them, so you can reflect on the fact that cats have always walked over stuff we don’t want them to!
The Perfume River was named for the fragrant scent of the flowers that fell from the orchards upstream during the Autumn months. The entire city smelled wonderful in the past, and the river looked beautiful as the blossoms floated slowly along. A stroll along the river or a boat cruise at sunset is a delightful way to end the day.
As it was an Imperial city, it has a tradition of Royal banquets and State Dinners. The food is marvellous due to this legacy. In a country renowned for its cuisine, Hue is outstanding. But don’t restrict yourself just to the plethora of remarkable restaurants. The roadside hawker stalls and the food stalls in the enormous Dong Ba Market will provide you with an inexpensive, delicious meal that your tongue will love you for. Still, your belly may not when it is stuffed full to bursting.
A slow walk around Hue is a must - take the time to admire the building and spaces.
The market itself is enormous and spread over two floors. Perfect for bagging a bargain, it is impossible to walk through all of the little allies in one day. Downstairs is the food stalls, fresh produce, household and general gear. Upstairs is clothing and fabrics. Rows and rows of gorgeous silks in dazzling colours and embroidered laces greet the eye.
Hue is a small charming city absolutely packed with history and culture, but it was almost destroyed in the summer of 1968. The city was a war zone, with massive bombing and desperate house to house fighting during the Tet Offensive. If you look closely, you can still see the evidence. Some of the beautifully decorated 19th-century French Cannons on display at the museum have bullet holes from high-powered weapons, and the old city walls bear scars from explosions. American GI’s graffiti etched into the walls, and the gates of the Emperors Tombs also bear witness to this dark time. The movie “Full Metal Jacket” depicts the desperate fighting in Hue.
Although organized tours are available, the best way to see the city is on the back of a motorbike driven by a local. Find a cyclo driver and ask him if he will take you on a motorbike. The cyclos are bicycle-powered rickshaws, and they are a lovely way to see the Perfume River but a little slow for a city tour. The cyclo drivers are charming, speak English well, and they know their city backwards. They know the back ways into the sites and can show you parts of the city that most tourists miss. They can also tailor the tour to take you to places you are actually interested in seeing, not just the well-trodden tourist path. Most also have a family member who has a restaurant where they will take you for lunch. The food will be delicious and cheap!
You can spend days in Hue and not see everything. It’s also a good base for the many attractions in the area, from stunning beaches with fluffy white sand to the Demilitarized Zone and Khe Sanh Combat Base to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Phong Nha Caves for take a boat through the miles of underground caverns and grottos.
Located in central Vietnam, one of the best ways to get there is by train. Depending on how long you have, fly to a city a few hours from Hue and take the train along the coast. The journey from Danang is four hours, and the scenery is spectacular. The train is also a great way to meet Vietnamese and strike up a conversation. Many are thrilled to show off their country to an inquisitive traveller. You will also get insider tips on where to eat away from the tourist areas. In a city renowned for its fantastic food, this is valuable information!
The beauty in each building…